Driving in the Snow

Over the past few years our winters have been wet rather than Arctic, but every time we get heavy snow there are tales of drivers stranded for hours on the motorways, or who get involved in crashes because they are unprepared for the winter conditions. Driving in fog, snow or ice is not part of the driving test, so as a driver it’s your responsibility to make sure you are properly prepared and know how to react if you are caught in a sudden snowfall.

Be Prepared

Weather forecasts are far more accurate now than they were even five years ago, so if you switch on the evening news to see snow is forecast, take the warnings seriously. If the expected snowfall is severe enough for police to warn against travel, try to delay your journey, arrange to work from home or leave much earlier than planned. It’s always much better to avoid getting stuck in the snow in the first place rather than worry about how to adjust your driving. If you do have to drive regularly in winter months keep an “emergency kit” in the boot of your car. Put a blanket or heavy coat, torch, bottle of water, hat, gloves, and some high energy snacks like chocolate or energy bars in a holdall in the boot of your car as soon as the weather starts to turn cold.

Check Your Car

If you're one of the many drivers who never checks things like how much antifreeze or windscreen wash fluid you have in the car, you could all too easily run out during a period of freezing weather. Top up fluids regularly, and buy antifreeze to add to the stop your engine block from freezing. Check your tyres have not worn down too far; the legal minimum is 2mm, but tread depths of more than 3mm are better for driving through the winter. If you live at high altitudes or in areas which get a lot of snow, it might be worth thinking about investing in a special set of winter tyres which will give more grip on slippery roads. Snow chains are widely used on the Continent, but aren't necessary for the majority of British drivers, however severe the weather.

If you're windows keep steaming up, we've got a guide on that too.

Easy Does It

If you're already out on the road when the snow starts, the key thing to remember is always to take things easy. All too often drivers panic, and slam on the brakes which results in a skid or the car hitting the one in front. Accelerate very gently, brake equally gently and leave lots of space between you and the car in front. Slow right down and don't even try to overtake or change lanes. Follow instructions from the Police given through the overhead signs on motorways or the digital signs beside other major routes. If you think things are too dangerous to proceed, get your car onto the hard shoulder or into a layby, and call for help.

Dealing With Ice

Seriously heavy snowfall which closes motorways and causes massive disruption is a fairly rare occurrence. Ice, however, affects most parts of the UK many times over the course of a winter. Councils do their best to get gritting lorries out onto all major routes, but it is also the responsibility of drivers to think about icy conditions and drive accordingly. Many of the same rules about gentle braking and accelerating apply to ice too. Try to set off in second gear rather than first as this will force the car to move more slowly and will reduce the likelihood of a skid.

Pay particular attention to the road ahead of you as you drive; many drivers are caught out by what looks like a puddle, but actually turns out to be a patch of black ice. Slow down as much as you need to in order to drive safely. If you lack confidence in driving in icy conditions, a session on a specially designed skid pan will give you the practical experience of dealing with a skidding car but in a controlled environment. Expect to pay around £100 for a half day’s tuition, or £175 for a full day. It’s money well spent if you have to drive regularly on icy roads, and probably a lot less than your insurance excess if you have a crash.

If you do have to use a shovel to clear some of the snow then why not look at our guide to get some tips 

Heating a Chilly Bathroom

Even in a centrally heated home, getting the temperature in the bathroom correct can be tricky. The window often needs to be left open for ventilation, and because of the restrictions on using electricity in bathrooms you can’t just plug in an electric heater as you would elsewhere in the house. If you’re feeling the chill in your bathroom this winter don’t despair; there are a few options which will help you make everything a bit warmer.

Underfloor Heating

Credit: H. Raab

It’s not really practical to consider installing underfloor heating in your bathroom unless you are having other major work done at the same time. Electric underfloor heating mats may not be expensive to install, but once you have factored in the costs of ripping up the floor, having the work signed off by an electrician, re-plastering where required and replacing the flooring, the costs can escalate considerably. If you’re building a new bathroom as part of a loft extension or completely gutting your house to start again, it’s a practical way of heating your bathroom. For most bathrooms though, underfloor heating isn’t really an option.

Additional Radiator

If you already have a radiator in the bathroom, it's worth making sure that it is working properly before you go to the expense of replacing it with a bigger one. Bleeding a radiator to let air out is a simple job and all you'll need is a radiator key to open the valve and a towel to catch any drips. If this doesn't do the trick, then get a plumber in to replace it. Modern radiators aren't all square and white, and not all need to be at floor level. Look around on websites and in the pages of the glossy interior design magazines for inspiration.

Remember though that if you are moving the location of the radiator this will cost more than simply replacing an old radiator with a new, bigger one as it will involve more plumbing work. Always get a quote from your plumber before they start work.

Heated Towel Rail

An example of a electric heated towel rail

A heated towel rail will not only keep your bathroom lovely and warm; it will help to dry off towels after your shower too. A towel rail can either be plumbed into the central heating system or electric, and if you are retro-fitting one to an existing bathroom, an electric heated towel rail is probably the best option. These are cheap to buy, with many coming in at less than £100, and won’t take an electrician long to fit either.

Take advice from the retailers and your electrician about which size of heated towel rail is most appropriate for your room, and remember to get one fitted with a timer so that you can time it to switch on and off with the rest of the heating in the house.

Fan Heaters and Infrared Heaters

One of the most economical bathroom heaters to buy and install – if not to run – is the basic fan heater which can be mounted on the wall. A simple pull cord is used to turn the heater on when needed, and off again when you leave the room. The problem is that electric fan heating in general, is inefficient and will cost more to run than other types of heating, and it won’t solve the problem of you having to step into a chilly bathroom first thing in the morning as it will take a few minutes to take the chill off the room after you pull the cord. Infrared heaters are also powered by electricity and work by heating up bars which glow. These sorts of heaters are similarly inefficient and have a very old-fashioned feel to them.

Increase the Insulation

In older houses, it’s common to find no insulation at all in the bathroom, which means that however good your heating is inside, much of the heat will be lost straight through the walls. Investigate whether your home would be suitable for cavity wall insulation, think about replacing single glazed windows with double glazed units or add insulation on the inside of the walls when you are replacing tiles or decorating. Taking steps to improve your bathroom’s energy efficiency could also save you money in the long term, as you won’t be allowing as much heat to escape.

You should also try these tips on avoiding bathroom condensation.

How to Avoid Injury While Shovelling Snow

Shovelling snow is one of those thankless tasks that simply must be done no matter how much we’d like to pretend otherwise. The fact is that it’s hard work and all too often those of us who have spent a lot of time the previous day clearing paths, wake up to find that Mother Nature has been out and about whilst we’re sleeping and done her worst yet again - so the whole sorry task has to be repeated!

If you live in an area where the roads are not cleared by the authorities then you will know just how important shovelling snow can be, especially for those people who have mobility issues. This is why every winter many able-bodied people find themselves clearing snow not only around their own properties but also around those of their neighbours. Because it’s a hard, physical task but a somewhat mundane one, it’s surprising how many injuries are caused yearly by shovelling snow. People don’t realise that it’s actually a dangerous task and one which needs to be approached with some caution.

Like in Weight Lifting, you Need to Be Aware!

If the snow is like this then don't even bother getting the shovel out!

Shovelling snow is actually very similar to weight lifting, and since most people don’t do this on a regular basis, it’s reasonable to assume that they’re perhaps not best placed to go for it with no training. Bending, lifting and removing large, heavy amounts of snow is an activity which can put the body under huge strain and cause many minor and more serious injuries; from strained muscles to heart attacks. In order to ensure your safety when shovelling snow, take care of yourself and heed the following warnings.

• Never shovel snow when you have a pre-existing heart problem or any chronic illness.
• Ensure that your shovel is in good repair with no bends or weak spots.
• Use a small shovel.
• If you feel any pain whatsoever then stop immediately.
• Do not continue on through breathlessness or chest pain as that's not normal.
• Drink plenty of fluids - this is a very strenuous activity.
• Do not get overheated and if you feel uncomfortably warm then take a break.
• Do not attempt to throw shovelfuls of snow for long distances.

A good tip is to shovel little and often. Don’t wait for the snow to build up to epic proportions but keep it down as it falls. Whenever there is a break in the snow fall, move a little at a time from your paths and roads. Don’t even attempt to shovel snow if you are not in tip top condition physically as it will be an enormous shock to your system.

If you are worried about getting snowed in or about the safety of your access, call your local authority for advice on what to do in order to keep your home accessible and your health in good order. If you do not have neighbours or relatives to shovel snow for you, there are charities that specialise in this kind of task and your local authority should be able to point you in the right direction.

Stay safe in the winter by thinking twice before taking on tasks which could be too much for you to cope with and if you have to drive in the snow, take a look at our guide.

We Recommend:

Purchasing a good quality shovel is a wise move and with the one we recommend, it's very versatile thanks to the telescopic capabilities. Easy to store away too in the shed or the boot of your car. 

13 Must-Know Mould Busting Tricks

Mould or mold? However you spell it it’s undoubtedly one of the most irritating things that can happen in your bathroom. If left untreated it can spread like wildfire and you’ll end up with a major problem on your hands, so getting rid of it should be a priority when it comes to bathroom care.

We recently covered how to first prevent mould and how to tackle it if you’ve already got it. We are, however, aware that there are many more methods to tackling a bathrooms worst nightmare, so Ant decided to use the ease of the DIY lovers website Hometalk to create a board featuring 13 different methods (including our own!) to eliminating mould.

Click the image above to see all the methods; including 10 natural solutions to making mould vanish, a method that employs cotton to tackle the problem and how you can get rid of mould that’s plaguing your bathroom ceiling.

Black Mould: How to Get Rid of it and Prevent it

Black mould or mildew in the bathroom isn’t just unsightly, it can be a real health hazard too. High levels of mould in the bathroom can cause a range of health problems as they produce a toxin which we breathe in every time we go into the room. In some people these problems can be mild allergy type symptoms, but in other people or when there are high levels of mould and mildew, the spores can cause permanent lung damage. Many households are involved in an ongoing battle against the mould and mildew, but there are a few things you can do to get rid of the mould, and to stop it coming back.

Getting Rid of It

Black mould is obviously not pleasant and whatever method you choose to try to get rid of it, it is important to protect yourself by using a face mask to prevent breathing in the spores. You're going to have to get out the big guns to get rid of the mould and mildew as using soap and water just isn’t going to be effective enough. You can look on the supermarket shelves for specialist mould and mildew removing products and follow the instructions on the bottle, or use stronger chemicals like ammonia or hydrogen peroxide. These chemicals are strong and can burn, so make sure you use rubber gloves, open the window for ventilation, and keep the kids and pets clear as you work. Pay special attention to the corners of the room or the grout between the tiles.

Baking soda mixed with vinegar does wonders when tackling bathroom mould!

There’s another method you can use without having to go out and spend money on chemical packed products. Simply mix baking soda with vinegar to create a thick paste. Use a toothbrush to dip into the paste and scrub the affected areas. For more stubborn areas, leave for 15 minutes before scrubbing off with warm water. If any sealant, such as around the bath, is badly stained then you’ll have to peel it off and replace as no amount of scrubbing or bleach will completely remove it.

If you have mould and mildew on your shower curtain, wash it on a hot cycle with some added bleach. If the mildew is hard to remove, swap your soft fabric shower curtain for a stiffer plastic one which is both less welcoming to the mould and easier to keep clean.

Ventilation

Once you’ve done the hard work of getting rid of the black mould, the last thing you want is for it to come back a few weeks later. Mould prefers to grow in warm and damp atmosphere, so getting air flowing through the bathroom is going to hinder its growth. Keep the bathroom window open whenever you can, especially when you are having a bath or a shower, and if you don't have a bathroom window or can’t leave it open for security reasons, the other option is to invest in a powerful extractor fan which will help the air to circulate. Leave the fan on for 5 or 10 minutes after you have finished in the shower, or get a fan fitted with a timer which switches on and off automatically with the light switch. There are even models that only operate when they sense moisture in the way, so you can leave it to suck all the moisture out of the bathroom before it switches itself off.

If you're getting a lot of condensation in your bathroom then it's a good bet that mould will eventually follow. As such it's worth having a read of this guide on avoiding bathroom condensation.

Mould Resistant Paint

Although it’s tempting, don't try to get rid of the black mould in the bathroom by just painting it over. It might look not too bad for a week or two, but the mould will eventually be back. However, once you’ve removed the mould and your walls are clear, you can then treat it with special mould resistant paint which will prevent the mould from starting to grow again. The downside is that the paint is a bit more expensive than regular emulsion and is available in a limited range of colours, but it’s certainly effective at stopping the mould, as long as you remember to keep the room ventilated. If you have had to scrape out all of the grout from between the bathroom tiles due to mould, replace the grout with a special mould resistant anti-bacterial and anti-fungal version too.

Heating and Insulation

A heated towel rail will bring both style and heat to your bathroom. 

Mould grows more quickly in rooms which are cold, damp or not well insulated. If you are living in an older property which has poor insulation, addressing this can help stop the mould coming back. Investigate whether you can have cavity wall insulation, or if your bathroom is upstairs, whether loft insulation will help. There are often government grants available to help pay for this sort of work (take a look here for help in finding exactly the grant you need), and most types of loft insulation are easy to install yourself (we wrote an article about the different types of insulation). Think about replacing an old, draughty single glazed window with a double glazed unit, and if your bathroom is unheated, ask a plumber to quote for installing a simple radiator or heated towel rail to help keep the chill off the room and stop the mould from growing.

Making a Greenhouse out of your Attic

The benefits of converting your loft into an extra bit of living space, whether a spare bedroom, bathroom, home office or leisure area, are well known. From increasing your home’s value to expanding your available space without the need to move house, loft conversions have proven their worth time and again.

Toronto Greenhouse Loft

But if those ideas don’t spark your interest, then how about something completely different? Those with green fingers and a bit of a creative bent could do well to take note of Toronto residents Stephen Young and Roseanne Berry, and their unique and ambitious attic conversion project.

Increasingly frustrated by the under use of their roof space, which up until this point had been a dumping ground for rarely used storage items, a makeshift guest bedroom and a generally dark and seldom visited corner of the home, the couple decided to take action.

Tying in with Young’s love of the culinary world, they took advantage of a complete extension and remodelling of the space, as well as some user-friendly gardening equipment, and created a fully operational greenhouse in their attic. Now, Young and Berry can grow tomatoes, lettuces, chillies and much more in the specially irrigated “vegetable farm”, keeping the local neighbourhood raccoon's away from the plants that used to sit exposed out on the deck.

Creating your Own

This may have been a large and ambitious project, but similar results can be obtained in your loft with a few DIY basics, if you so wish. Attics are ideal for use as a produce growing area, as they are fully exposed to natural sunlight (with the right window options), well out of the way of pests, animals and fumes from vehicles, and are often sufficiently hot and humid if insulated correctly.

There are a number of considerations you must make before you start planting your vegetables and herbs, however. First of all, you must work out a way to protect the floor from any water that may fall on it as a result of plant irrigation or condensation from the heat - plastic sheeting or properly sealed hardwood flooring provide the simple solution here.

Next, set up some standing shelving units on top of your plastic sheeting around three sides of the area you wish to use as your greenhouse. These will hold your seedlings and plants, so bear that in mind when you’re measuring size and shape.

Install specialised grow bulb lighting underneath the top of the shelving units (these can be found at most garden centres and DIY shops), and attach an automatic timer to the plug socket they’re being used in. The timer should replicate the rising and setting of the sun, so adjust it accordingly as the seasons change.

Finally, cover the whole area in plastic sheeting so as to keep it insulated, leaving an access point for you to get in and water the plants inside.

Installing and maintaining a basic greenhouse like this in the attic is simple and straightforward, but it may not be everyone’s idea of fun, and those opting for the more conventional bedroom, bathroom or office conversions should seek the assistance of professionals. 

How to Get Rid of Dust Mites

Dust mites are the bane of many people’s lives, but most especially those with asthma or other breathing issues. Dust mites are minute creatures which thrive off the dust and debris which is left behind by most human’s daily lives. Much of what forms the diet of the average dust mite is rather horrible to contemplate; they eat the tiny flakes of skin which are shed by humans and left behind on many surfaces but most especially within soft furnishings, bedding, rugs and soft toys. Because dust mites can cause extreme irritation to those who have breathing problems already, it is very important that you deal with the issue should it arise in your home.

If you do find that you have to get rid of dust mites then the first thing to do is to target each room as a separate entity; this helps you to ensure that you do not miss one single item in your battle against dust mites.

Tackle the problem room by room.

Begin in the bedroom by removing all of the bedding and washing it on the hottest wash possible. The carpets are most effectively removed by using a commercial carpet cleaner which again is set to the hottest possible setting. Carpet cleaners may be hired relatively cheaply from large superstores.

With soft toys and cushions, a two pronged attack is necessary as they are thick and dust mites may be harboured deep within the body of them. Use a vacuum cleaner to thoroughly remove as much dust and mites as possible and then wash the items on a very hot setting. Hang them out to dry and then vacuum then once more, before washing them once more again. This may seem over the top but it is the only way to be certain that any dust or mites are really removed.

You will also need to be careful when you dispose of the bag from the vacuum cleaner; if you are planning on an attack of the entire house, you should change the bag of the vacuum cleaner outdoors and often. Do not do it indoors or you will be at risk of releasing the mites again.

As with the bedroom, you will also need to use a commercial carpet cleaner on the other carpets in your home. If possible, clean them twice. Heavy curtains and drapes are renowned for harbouring dust mites and these should be sent away to be cleaned professionally. If your curtains and drapes are made of cotton and are lightweight then you will be able to clean them in your own washing machine on a very hot setting. Again, do this twice.

All hard surfaces such as laminate and hardwood floors should be cleaned with hot water, ensuring that you reach under all furniture so that you get to every dusty spot. Cleaning a house to free it from dust mites is a long process, but it is best to be extremely thorough so that they don’t keep coming back.

You should clean soft toys and cushions on a weekly basis if you have an asthma sufferer in the house, as this is the only true way to avoid the infestation getting a grip on your home.

Top image by Gilles San Martin.

How to Lay your own Carpets: A Fuss Free Method!

Laying your own carpets isn’t as difficult as you may imagine. Many people are put off by the fact that carpets are not only heavy to move but very expensive, one mistake and there’s no going back! But if you follow instructions very carefully then there’s no need to assume that carpet laying is only a job which professionals can tackle. Before you begin the task of laying your own carpet, take a look at the tools which you will need.

• Sharp knife such as a Stanley Knife
• Chalk
• Tape measure
• Knee pads

The first thing you will need to tackle is the removal of the old carpet. Many people do this by cutting it into strips before pulling it up. Take the door off the hinges first and then begin cutting your strips. Roll the strips up as you go along so that they are easier to dispose of. If your underlay is in good condition you can retain this, but in most cases if the carpet is worn out then the underlay will be too. Leave any existing tackstrips in place and ensure that the floor is clean and dry before moving on to the next stage.

Laying Underlay

Your underlay should be laid in strips right up to the tackstrips, and then trimmed with a sharp knife. Next you should use duct tape to seal the edges of the underlay and ensure a tight fit.

Laying Carpet

Installing your carpet will be the next stage and to begin, you should make sure that you have a piece which overlaps the edge of the floor by around 6 inches. To cut the carpet you should measure the room at the longest point and then add on the 6 inches. Mark the carpet on the reverse with the added measurement; do this on both edges and then join the marks with a chalk line. Be sure to get this line very straight, using a straight edge to help. Once you have marked the line, fold the carpet back on itself and cut along the line with a Stanley Knife, again making use of your straight edge to ensure that your cut is perfect. You can place some old board or thick card underneath your working area to protect your underlay.

As you continue to fit the carpet along the room, remember that any cuts you make are permanent and that as you cut along the skirting boards, your cuts should be slightly angled towards yourself and not away from yourself. This ensures a tidy finish with the “nap” of the carpet lying correctly and towards the wall or skirting boards.

Fitting carpet is a precise job which, although daunting at first, is actually not that complicated and only needs a steady hand and a little bravery! Prepare your carpet and your room well and you’re sure to make a success of the task. It’s a good idea to have an extra person around to help out and to provide a second pair of hands and eyes. Two people checking if a line is straight are far more reliable than one.

How To Get Tough Stains Out of Carpets

It’s every home-owners nightmare: a glass of red wine spilled across their beautiful cream carpet. Stains on carpets can be very hard to remove, and there is no end to old wives’ tales about salt, using water, not using water and so on.

Although there is no one way of treating every stain, it’s worthwhile learning how to deal with the most common stains so that if that glass of red wine is spilled, you’ll know what to do about it.

General Principles

Although there are no miracle solutions which will work on every single stain, there are some general principles to bear in mind.

Firstly, take action promptly. The longer you leave the stain, the harder it will be to treat. If the spill is liquid such as blood, coffee or red wine, use kitchen paper to soak up as much of the liquid as you can right away. Don’t scrub at the stain; just blot up as much of the excess as you can. It’s also a good idea to keep a stock of stain removing sprays or powder in the cupboard.

Red Wine

Wine is one of the hardest stains to deal with, and time is of the essence it dealing with it. Get to work with the kitchen paper blotting up as much as you can, and forget the story about pouring white wine on the top.

Sparkling water or soda water does the job far better, so treat the affected area with the water, blot again, and repeat the process until the stain is gone. Once you have got the majority of the stain out, treat the area with carpet shampoo to remove any last traces.

Failing that, try this:

Blood

If you have children, or are just particularly accident prone, drips of blood on the carpet are more common than you may think. Washing up liquid is good at getting blood out of your carpet, so mix one tablespoon of washing up liquid with two cups of cold water, and use an old toothbrush to work it into the stain. Keep blotting the carpet and repeating the process.

If there is still a stain once you have repeated the process several times, use a solution of ammonia. Ammonia is available in DIY and traditional ironmonger shops, but needs to be used with caution.

Just a note that it's best to put on gloves before you start dealing with blood stains, but you'd be safer to wear gloves when dealing with any stains on this list anyway.

Mud

The one exception to the “act quickly” rule is mud. If someone has trampled mud over your white carpets, then let the mud dry before trying to remove it. Once it has completely dried up, try to vacuum up as much as possible.

If there is still some mud left, mix up some washing up liquid or washing machine detergent with water, and sponge it onto the stain. Blot up the muddy liquid and repeat the process as often as you need to in order to remove the stain.

Nail Varnish

Again, start by blotting up as much of the spilled nail varnish as you can with some paper towels, kitchen paper or even loo roll. Then use tiny amounts of acetone nail varnish remover to blot onto the stain and remove the polish; the easiest way to do this is with a dropper or pipette. Acetone can react with some artificial fibres and cause them to melt, so take care if your carpet is not pure wool.

Apparently hair gel also works. Let us know if you successfully manage to give this one a try!

Nail varnish is one of the hardest stains to remove, and if you regularly have a problem with spilled nail varnish, have a specialist removal product on standby.

General Staining

If you have moved into a property where the carpets have more general old staining, it can be tempting to rip all of the carpets out and fit new ones. Before taking that step, getting the professionals in to clean your carpets can be well worth the expense. It will cost around £500 to get the carpets professionally cleaned in the average three bedroom house, and if you want to do the work yourself, carpet cleaning machine hire is about £40 for 24 hours.

Deep cleaning the carpets with detergent and steam can give them a whole new lease of life and may allow you to put the expense of replacing them off until later.

How to Get Rid of Gum in Your Carpet

It’s one of those things which make the heart of every house-proud homeowner sink; the sight of a big blob of sticky chewing gum ground into their beautiful carpet. Many people make the mistake of trying to tear the offending gum out with their fingers whilst it is still fresh and because of the nature of chewing gum this is one effort that will simply lead to frustration!

The gum will cling to each and every fibre whilst it is still soft and no amount of picking, pulling or poking will convince it to leave. There are many solutions to the problem of gum in your carpet and perhaps one of the most well known remedies is that of freezing the gum with a piece of ice and then chipping it away once it is frozen solid. This remedy can also work with clothing; the idea is that you place the clothing in a plastic bag and pop it into the freezer to become solid and then remove it manually.

The ice method is quite reliable but there are some even more effective methods out there; one of which includes quite bizarrely, peanut butter! Peanut butter contains an oil which will dissolve the chemicals in gum and make it more of a liquid consistency, which is excellent for stubborn remnants of gum which may remain after you have removed the main body of the gum.

Simply smear a little peanut butter on top of the gum and leave it for ten minutes to work its magic and then with a clean, damp cloth firmly lift the peanut butter and gum out of the carpet. If you do take this route you will also need to use a commercial carpet cleaner on the spot afterwards. Simply clean the area which has been covered in peanut butter according to the instructions on the carpet cleaner package.

Other versions of the peanut butter remedy are just as effective and they include peanut oil, olive oil and WD40. Dab a little of the substance on top of the gum and then remove with a clean, damp cloth. Once again it is important to use a commercial carpet cleaner on the spot afterwards.

The best remedy for gum on your carpet is of course to avoid the situation altogether as it is very awkward to get every last piece out, but if you have children or teenagers in your household then you will know that a blanket ban on chewing gum is not so easy to maintain!

Try to get to the chewing gum as quickly as possible because it is much easier to remove fresh chewing gum than it is to remove gum which has sat in place for any length of time. Always use a commercial carpet shampoo or spot cleaner after you are certain that you have removed all gum plus any residue that may have been left behind adhering to the fibres, if you find that one method does not work to your satisfaction then it will do no harm to try another.

From a personal opinion, I do chew gum but would never throw it on the street as some people do. Quite surprised really that the government haven't heavily taxed the makers yet..... because I would.

How To Lay Garden Decking: A Step-By-Step Guide

So, you’re thinking of laying down some garden decking? Great idea. Putting down a bit of decking in your garden will make it look infinitely neater whilst giving it a smart appearance and space to entertain family and friends. Best of all, it will be easy to maintain and care for, when compared to unruly grass, plants and all that type of stuff.

The decision of laying garden decking is usually one which you’ll mull over for a while, or sometimes it might be an immediate thing that you know needs doing. If you aren't a big fan of how your garden currently looks or you feel like you’ve got bored over the years and just want a change, decking is a good option. You might consider it an investment that will increase the value of the property or you might have just moved from a property with decking into one without and you want that luxury back... Whatever your reasons are for wanting decking, we’ll do our best to help you do it yourself.

However, if you’re still ‘umming and arring’ about whether this is the right decision for your garden, then hopefully we’ll be able to sway your mind by giving you a quick run-down of the pros and cons associated with laying your own decking.

Should You Hire Someone To Do It For You?

There’s no doubt that this question crosses everyone’s mind at some point; especially those who aren't that experienced at DIY. Before you decide either way, it’s wise to get a couple of quotes from people in the trade to give you an idea of the cost. You can then use that figure as a basis of comparison to how much it will cost you to complete yourself. (We strongly recommend that you get quotes from experienced professionals. Preferably people who have done work in your area before that you can view beforehand, just to give you an idea of the quality and finish!)

Here are the pros and cons of doing it yourself in comparison to getting a professional to carry out the work for you:

Pros:

1. Accomplishment – when you complete a project like this yourself, it really does give you a feeling of accomplishment and self belief. Especially if you’ve done a cracking job which others doubted you could do (and even better if it adds value to your property!)
2. Costs – hiring a professional will obviously cost you considerably more as you’re paying for someone else’s time. As mentioned before, ring around for quotes and compare this to your own time and costs.
3. Corner cutting – you know that if you do it yourself you’ll do it to the best of your ability using the best equipment possible. If you hire someone else, you have to be sure that they won’t ‘cut corners’ in order to save money and/or time.
4. Boast – every time someone comes round to your house, you can point out the window at the decking and tell them; “yep, I did that.” However, be warned, this might come at a price as other people will start asking you if you’re free to help them with their DIY projects.

Cons:

1. Quality of finish – if you aren’t that clued up when it comes to DIY and you don’t really know what you’re doing, investing in a professional will be worth it as the finish will be infinitely better quality.
2. 2. Time – if you’re a busy person, there’s a chance you don’t have weekends free to complete such a project and you’d be better off getting a professional in for a few days than wasting your time over a period of several months.

All of these things should be considered before you make a decision. We also must state that if you don’t feel confident in undertaking a job of this size, ask friends who are competent in DIY to lend a helping hand or simply hire a professional. However, if you don’t mind learning from your mistakes as you go along, then a DIY project such as this will certainly improve your skills and confidence.

Consider The Costs First

Before we even tell you the things you’ll need, we’re going to give you a quick breakdown of the costs in order to see if you have the budget for it and the time. Obviously if you don’t have the budget for it, there’s little chance you’ll have the budget for a professional – but that doesn't mean you can’t save up!

The cost of the decking itself varies depending whether you want to buy a decking kit or individual pieces of decking to suit your project. For example, a 2x2m decking kit will likely set you back around £200 whereas buying components and lengths to suit your own custom sized decking will cost a fair bit less. It’s also worth taking into account the cost of equipment and consumables you’ll need to complete the job (listed further down), especially if you don’t have them lying around already.

Don’t forget your time. I personally consider time to be money and if you’re a working man or woman, you should as well. With that in mind, a small to average sized decking area will likely take an entire weekend for a competent DIY’er and friend to complete. However, if you’re working on your own, planning a large sized decking area or are simply inexperienced at DIY, then you should budget for an extra weekend or two. Approximate the amount of time this will take you to complete and then work out how much your time is worth per hour and multiply them together. If the figure is higher than that of an experienced professional, you may be better off working overtime and letting a pro do the hard work. Just food for thought!

What Will You Need To Complete The Job?

As with every job, it pays to make sure you have all the things you need on hand before you get stuck in. So here’s a comprehensive list of everything you should need to get the job done:

• Weed control fabric/membrane: A weed suppressant is required at the lowest level to prevent weeds from growing up through the decking. Buy as much as you need to cover the base of the decking.
• Gravel: This goes on top of the membrane and acts as a solid, flat foundation for the joists of your decking and ensures adequate drainage of water.
• Decking & joists: Obviously this is required or you’ll just be walking over the gravel you’ve put down. Once again, buy as much as you require for the size of decking you’re planning.
• Screws: Obviously you’ll also need screws to secure the decking in place. The best option for this is stainless steel screws or countersunk screws which are galvanised.
• Drill & screwdriver: If you’re doing this with individual decking, you’ll likely need to drill your own screw holes whereas decking kits will likely come with pre-drilled holes. A handheld screwdriver is ideal for screwing the screws into place.
• Spade: You will need a spade to dig up all the turf and weeds where you plan on laying the decking and levelling the ground before placing down the foundation.
• Saw: A good quality saw to cut the decking to the correct lengths; unless you have a decking kit which is a perfect fit, in which case you might get away without one.
• Spirit level: Needed to ensure that your foundation, joists and decking is completely flat.
• Tape measure, pegs & string: All of this is required for the preparation stage where you lay out the outline of your decking. It’s important to measure accurately so you know exactly how much space and decking you require.
• Wood preservative: This is an important final step to ensure all your hard work doesn't come undone due to rotting of the decking.

Plan & Prepare

Whilst we DIY nuts like to jump into jobs head first and get our hands dirty, sometimes it actually pays off to do a bit of preparation and planning; especially when it’s a job of this size. You’ll first want to draw up an outline/proposed plan of the size of the decking; do this on a piece of paper or use a bit of software for more accuracy. Once you’re happy with the sizing and measurements you can double check that you’ve got all the essential equipment mentioned in the list above.

If you’ve got all of this, you can begin putting the outline of the decking in place by using pegs and string. Simply measure out the size of each side of the decking and place pegs into the ground where the decking will change angle; connect each of these pegs up with string. This will give you a visual idea of the size of the decking and if it actually fits in with the image in your head.

This is the time to back out if you have any doubts. However, if you’re confident and everything shapes up as you had planned, it’s time to get started on the project (hopefully with the help of a friend!)

Let’s Start – Step By Step Guide

You've double checked that you’ve got all of the equipment you need to complete the project. You've laid out the perimeter of your decking with pegs and string. You've ensured that you’ve got enough time and patience to do the job to the best of your ability. Awesome – you’re ready to go. Just remember, take it slow and do everything as thoroughly as you possibly can to avoid any problems occurring during the project or in the future.

Step 1: Pull out your trusty spade and get to work on removing the grass and weeds inside the decking area. Once this has all been cleared, you can flatten the area also using your spade. If there is any elevation in the ground, this is the perfect time to level it off.

Step 2: Now your ground is levelled off, place your weed proof fabric / membrane over the area. Straight on top of this you need to add a layer of gravel for further support and drainage. Again, ensure this is spread evenly and as flat as possible; this will make the rest of the project easier.

Step 3: Lay down the decking framework on top of the gravel and line it all up. It’s best to do the outline first and then add floor joists inside the framework at intervals of 400mm across the centres. With everything laid out, you can mark the joists and framework where they need to be cut (assuming they do).

Step 4: Using your saw, cut everything to the correct length, making sure accuracy is a priority. With everything cut to size, lay everything down once again on top of the gravel ready to put together.

Step 5: The foundation of the decking needs to be joined together. Pre-drill 3 holes in each joist end and then screw 70mm countersunk screws into these holes for maximum strength. Every time you work on a new joist, place a spirit level on top to double check that everything is level before continuing to fix it into place.

Step 6: Now it’s time to actually lay the decking. Place the deck boards at a right angle to the joists and lay them across, starting at the front of the decking. You’ll want to make sure the ends are flush with the edge of the frame (you may need to cut some of the boards to length to ensure they fit). Before screwing them into the joists using 50mm countersunk screws, make sure you have the holes pre-drilled at the correct positions. After screwing one down, double check to make sure it’s level and then apply some weight to ensure it’s up to the job.

Step 7: This is pretty much a rinse and repeat job; continue to lay the rest of the decking using 2 x 50mm countersunk screws to secure the board to each joist. Remember, it’s wise to leave around a 5mm gap in between the deck boards to allow for expansion. If you want to ensure the same gap each time, cut a piece of wood or something similar to the size you want and use it as a spacer.

Step 8: Time to add the finishing touches by sealing all of the cut ends with a wood preservative to prevent rotting in future. It’s wise to reapply a new coating every several years or as recommended by the manufacturer.

NB. It’s worth noting that these steps are all assuming that you’re laying decking over what used to be grass/turf. If you’re planning on laying decking on top of a patio, the first two steps are pretty much irrelevant.

We should apologise for the lack of images and illustrations of the process in this guide, it’s something we’ve been meaning to get round to. We will attempt to update it with relevant pictures at some point in the near future – thanks for your patience and we hope this has been a helpful read!

Image credits (all licensed under Creative Commons):

1. GranitArchitects on Flickr
2. Ian Llyod on Flickr
3. As above.

How to Clean Tile Grout

However well ventilated you keep your bathroom, the warm and wet atmosphere can allow mould and dirt to start building up on surfaces. Keeping tiles and other hard surfaces clean is simple, and there are lots of cleaning products which will help you do this – and even products that you wouldn’t necessarily think could be used for cleaning.

One of the trickiest places to keep clean is the grout between the tiles. Many homeowners think that once the grout starts getting grotty or develops mould that there is no other option but to replace it all. This is a time consuming and messy job, but can be avoided with some simple tips to clean your grout and get it looking as good as new.

Over the Counter Products

There are some products on the market which promise to remove mould and mildew from bathroom surfaces, and these can work wonders on grout too. They have the dual action of killing off any mould spores in the grout, and bleaching it to return the colour back to its original white. The downside to these products are that they can smell very strongly of chemicals, can be expensive to buy, and they are not particularly kind to the planet.

If you are short of time though they are worth a try, but always follow the instructions on the back of the bottle about opening windows or using gloves if recommended to do so.

Bicarbonate of Soda

Bicarbonate of soda, also sometimes called baking soda, has a huge number of uses around the house. When mixed with water, bicarbonate of soda forms a paste which is slightly alkaline, and this makes the ideal thing to kill off any bacteria and clean out your grout.

Use an old toothbrush to work the paste into the grout, and scrub gently. If you think that there is also mould growing in the grout, mix the bicarbonate of soda with some bleach to make the paste instead of water, and wear gloves to protect your hands. Remember to rinse well once you have finished going around all of the grout.

This is a cheap way of cleaning the grout which will not cause environmental damage either. Here are 51 more ways to use bicarbonate of soda.

Vinegar

The other product which is invaluable for cleaning around the house is plain old white vinegar, exactly the same as the stuff you put on your chips. Vinegar is an acid, and this natural property means it will kill off any bacteria and germs growing on your tiles or grout.

Mix your vinegar up with a little water and put it into a spray bottle. Spray it generously all over your tiles and grout, and leave it to work for 15 minutes before wiping the solution away. As this is a “less effort” way of cleaning your grout, it’s worth trying the vinegar first before scrubbing with bicarbonate of soda.

If you don't have any vinegar, you can get the same sort of results by using lemon juice instead.

Cover It Up

Something like this Wickes Grout Whitener works well for cover up.

If after trying vinegar, lemon juice, bicarbonate of soda and the commercially available products, then the final option before replacing the grout completely is one of the grout reviver products on the market. These clever inventions cost anything between £2 and £12, but the cost is far less than replacing the grout.

Grout reviver comes either in a tube like toothpaste or with a small brush to apply it and you just paint it over the top of the existing grout and leave it to dry. Most of them also have anti-mould properties to them and this sort of product is definitely a good way of brightening up the grout as a quick fix.

Stopping the Grout Getting Dirty Again

Once you’ve cleaned up your grout and got it looking as good as new, try to stop the mould or dirt from building up again. Always keep the window open when you are having a bath or a shower as mould loves the warm, steamy environment. If it’s the middle of winter, open the window as soon as you have finished bathing. Try to wipe away any excess water on the tiles or the grout if possible.

Using any household or bathroom cleaning spray on your grout regularly should stop it getting dirty again in the future.

How to Hang Wallpaper the Easy Way

Image credit: iCanvasArt

Hanging wallpaper is one of those jobs which cause people to shake their heads in horror. Most people dread the task so much that they’d far rather pay someone else to do it but the fear of hanging wallpaper has come largely from various silly sitcoms and sketches where hapless decorators get in a tangle whilst wrestling with sheets of damp paper, which inevitably get torn, get pasted on upside down or fall off as soon as they’re on!

The reality of hanging wallpaper however isn’t half as tricky as the writers of these shows would have you believe! The tools which you will need are not extensive or particularly expensive and most people will know someone who doesn't mind loaning them the items if you don’t want to go out and spend a fortune on specialist tables etc.

Materials Necessary for Hanging Wallpaper 

• Wallpaper
• Wallpaper paste
• Sugar soap
• Lining Paper
• Dust sheet
• Bucket
• Step ladder
• Paper hanging brush
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Wallpaper scissors
• Sponge
• Table

Preparation Counts!

Always prepare the room properly before even thinking about putting brush to paper! You should empty the room of as much furniture and knick-knacks as possible and cover up the flooring with your dust sheets. Strip the walls of any existing paper and wash the walls down with sugar soap to remove the residue of the old paper and paste. If there are any holes in the wall be sure to fill them.

If the walls have recently been plastered then it is important to “size” them before you attempt to hang any paper; this is done by simply brushing a watered down solution of wallpaper paste all over them and allowing it to dry; this helps the paper to stick to the surface once it’s time to get down to the nitty gritty. Once the walls are clean, sized and hole-free then you should paint any skirting boards or door frames which need work doing, then you can move on to the job at hand!

Lining Paper

Lining paper is vital if you want a really professional finish to your walls; hang it horizontally around the room leaving a 2mm gap between each sheet. Leave it to dry thoroughly and wait for air bubbles to disappear rather than over-smoothing the paper. If any bubbles are still apparent after drying, then simply make a small cut with a Stanley knife to release the air which is trapped.

Hanging the Paper

When measuring be sure to measure twice before cutting any paper, once its cut it can’t be put back on the roll! When cutting, allow 50mm extra paper top and bottom for trimming neatly - this is vital if you want the paper to look perfect. Cut your first piece after measuring and marking the length with a pencil and straight edge, then cut it off the roll with a pair of shears or wallpaper scissors. Before cutting your next section, ensure that the pattern matches up with the first piece; you may lose some paper as you match up each piece but it is vital that the pattern repeat is correct. Number each piece on the back in pencil as you go along and once the paper is all cut then you can begin pasting.

Pasting

Most wallpaper requires pasting on the back, but some modern papers need to be stuck to a wall which has been pasted; your packaging will give instructions as to which method you should use. Paste from the centre of the strip outwards and never from the edge inwards. When you have covered the sheet in paste, gently bring two edges together without creasing the length and allow to dry; this allows the paper to stretch. When you come to hang your first piece of paper, choose the focal point of the room if there is one, such as a chimney breast and hang the first piece directly in the centre of it. This looks much better than a bold pattern being off-set.

Use a plumb line to draw a vertical line on the wall as a guide to hanging and your work should be accurate. Once the first piece is up, trim the top and the bottom and then use a brush to smooth any air pockets away.

When it comes to the awkward spots such as electric sockets, the trick is to paper right over them and then cut them free afterwards. Make a cross in the centre of the covered switch and then cut the paper in an “X” shape to allow neat trimming on all sides.

Always ensure that any wallpaper which you purchase has matching serial numbers; this is because different batches may have tiny inconsistencies such as slight differences in colour.

As with all DIY in the home, ensure there is a second person around to assist you. Working on step ladders is much easier when you have someone there to pass you the tools you need.

How To Replace Glass in a Broken Window

A broken window is often one of those accidents that just can't be avoided. Children with footballs, storm damage and attempted break ins are some of the most common reasons for having to replace glass, and it’s often a job that we call in a glazier to do for us. This can be quite expensive, especially if you call someone out of hours or on a weekend. Replacing glass can be a little tricky if it’s something you have never done before, but it’s a job that most people with basic DIY skills can do with a little planning.

Emergency Repairs

If you have had storm damage or an attempted break in, you need to deal with the problem right away. If you are going to be able to get glass and do the job in the morning, all that you need to secure your home is a sheet of polythene and some tape. For longer term repairs, chipboard can be screwed or nailed into the frames until you have time to do the job properly.

Buying the Glass

The first thing that will need to be bought is glass to fit the window which is cracked or broken. Glaziers are happy to sell you glass which is cut to order if you can give them accurate measurements. Measure the size of the window carefully either in inches or in centimetres and call round a selection of local glass suppliers to get prices for the glass which you need.

If your glass has been damaged by someone kicking a ball or because someone has tried to break in, it might be worth considering safety glass or toughened glass which is less easy to break. It may be a little more expensive, but spending extra now will mean not having to replace the glass again in the future.

Tools Needed

It's worth having a good set of chisels so you're prepared

As well as the glass you have bought to fit your window, you will need some basic DIY tools and items which can be easily bought in any large DIY store and many of the larger supermarkets too. The main things you will need are gloves to protect your hands while working, safety goggles, a chisel, some putty, hammer, putty knife and paint. If you are unsure of what tools you need, ask for advice from a sales assistant in the shop.

Removing the Old Glass

The first job once you have got your new glass and gathered together all of the tools you need is to remove the old, broken glass from the window.

Put a dust sheet on the floor underneath the window to catch the glass as it falls. Using your safety gloves and wearing the goggles to protect your eyes from shards of glass, score the glass around the old putty to try to loosen it. Tap the glass carefully with your hammer and remove the pieces gently, making sure they fall onto the dust sheet.

Once as much of the old glass has been removed as possible, use your chisel or an old knife to remove all remaining glass and bits of old putty.

Putting in New Glass

Start by taking the putty out of the packaging and work it in your hands like modelling clay until it is soft and easy to mould. A little water on your hands may help if the putty is very sticky. Shape the putty into a long sausage shape around 3mm thick, and press it into the edges of the window frame to hold the new glass into place.

Once you have gone around all of the edges of the frame with the putty – paying especial attention to the corners – press the glass carefully into position. Only ever press on the edges of the glass avoiding the middle of the pane as this may cause the glass to break.

Finishing

After your glass has been put into the frame, trim off any excess putty using a special putty knife, taking care not to remove too much of the putty or damage the glass as you work. Putty can take up to two weeks to harden and dry completely, so you cannot immediately start painting and priming the frame.

How to Get Rid of Mice: No Poison or Traps Required!

Mice may be cute as pets, but you really don't want wild ones running amok around your home.

So you’ve seen a mouse, or evidence of little teeth in your cereal boxes, and you’re not happy about it. Not many of us enjoy sharing our homes with tiny little rodents, even if they are sort of cute. The evidence of an infestation can be seen in a variety of ways; including chewed sections on your dry goods storage boxes (especially if they are made of cardboard), mouse droppings in your cupboards and, of course, sightings. A little scurrying mouse can sometimes be seen after dark if you’re sitting very quietly and they think nobody is about. Mice usually appear after lights out when they know there is very little chance of bumping into their human hosts, so if you sleep near to the kitchen you might even hear them scurrying around.

Older houses and houses which sit in a row like terraces are more at risk of mouse infestations because the mice travel from house to house under the floorboards or even through roof-spaces.

Many people find the idea of traps, spring loaded or glue style, unimaginably cruel. The sight of a tiny crushed body or, even worse, a little mouse stuck fast to a glue trap and very much alive is a horrifying one. Poison is equally awful as it takes days for the mouse to die after consuming it, resulting in a very painful way to die.

There are thankfully other, kinder ways to repel and deter mice from your home and they’re more eco-friendly too. Mice are basically incontinent and are known to constantly leak urine as they go about their business. Not only that but they have no compunction in relieving themselves right into your cereal boxes, so it’s definitely a good idea to get rid of them as soon as you become aware of their presence.

Find their entry points

Find where they're coming from!

Look close to the areas where you have seen evidence of mice and see if you can see their holes. Mice can squeeze through impossibly small holes; tiny gaps no bigger than an inch or even less will provide a good entry and exit point for mice so seal them all up. Often they are located at the back of cupboards, close to doorways and in skirting boards. The best way to seal them is by stuffing them with wire wool which mice cannot chew through.

Put them off

Mice cannot abide the scent of peppermint; so take some peppermint oil, soak some cotton wool balls in it and leave them strategically about close to the areas where you think they have been hanging out.

Another good method of putting mice off your home is to remove their food supplies. Seal all of your dry goods in plastic tubs and boxes; choosing the type with tight lids. Mice have a great sense of smell, but if the food is inaccessible they will move on. Each evening before you go to bed, do a spot check for crumbs. Wipe up every crumb that you can find and ensure all food is sealed away. There’s no need to leave them a buffet!

Get a cat

This cat is ready for some mouse hunting!

Mice don’t like cats. This is common knowledge and they will usually avoid a home with the presence of a cat in it. Although this obviously isn’t practical for everyone, it’s a very natural way to deter the pesky little critters and it won’t be you who is responsible for catching them.

How to Restore Parquet Flooring

Image credit

Parquet flooring can be a stunning addition to any home and in many period homes it is already present. Often sorely neglected beneath old carpet it usually requires restoring before it can be displayed to its best advantage. Parquet flooring in good condition can increase the value of your home so it is well worth the effort it takes to restore and maintain it.

What is parquet flooring?

Parquet floor is made up of many small blocks of hardwood which is traditionally put together in a basket-weave pattern or a herringbone pattern though other, more complex patterns can be found with different wood types being used to create complex almost 3D designs.

What issues can you have with it and how do you fix these issues?

The most common issue with old parquet flooring is that some blocks are loose or even missing; if this is the case with your floor then you will need to replace the missing blocks and then sand them down along with the old blocks. When stained, the difference won’t be noticeable at all.

Replacing missing blocks is not difficult. Traditional parquet blocks are secured with nails or pins, though sometimes you may find that bitumen glue has been used too and this will need scraping off the floor before you try to add a new block.

Once you have replaced any missing blocks, you will need to sand down the entire floor; an orbital sander is the best tool for this job as it is gentle on the wood yet creates a lovely, smooth finish.

Start with an 80 or 120 grit paper on your sander and go from one end of the room to the other, then return to the end you started; sanding in strips makes the job easier and ensures that no sections get missed out. Once you have completed the entire floor, it must be repeated with a 220 or 240 grit paper. This will smooth the floor out more and reduce the roughness in general.

Cleaning up and protecting it

Now it’s time to clean up the dust! The best way to do this is by using a water filtration vacuum cleaner, as this ensures that the dust does not escape back into the atmosphere. If you can’t get hold of a water filtration vacuum cleaner like this Draper 13785 W/ Dry 20 Litre Vacuum Cleaner, 230 Vthen use an ordinary vacuum cleaner followed by a mop with a little mineral turpentine.

Next up is adding sealant. You can purchase ready-tinted sealant or add your own choice of stain to a clear sealant. We quite like this one: Liberon FSW1L 1L Floor Sealer. Whichever option you choose you will need to paint the sealant on with a brush around the edges of the room and you can then use a roller on the main surface area. The first coat may be absorbed almost completely, this is fine; allow it to dry completely before rubbing lightly with fine steel wool. Add a second and then a third coat of sealant for the ultimate in long-lasting shine.

Let each coat dry completely before adding the next and do not use the room for 24 hours after the last coat. Replacing furniture too soon will leave nasty marks on your beautiful floor!

Keep your newly refurbished parquet floor clean with regular mopping. If you use the best products, the finish will last for many years.